Alison Hughes enjoys some Breton hospitality on a taste sensation tour of the charming Morbihan town of Vannes…
We were a small group who gathered outside the town hall in Vannes to start our food tour in the company of our compagnon gourmand, Bertrand. A proud Breton, Bertrand has a background in tourism and hospitality and first came across the idea of food tours while working in India and thought it would be a great way to celebrate Breton cuisine.
Vannes is a perfect place to explore on foot-the sort of place where you can freely wander, soaking up the history and the visual treat of half-timbered buildings and pavement cafés. But it’s even better if you have a knowledgeable guide and tastings along the way. Starting near the hôtel de ville reminiscent of the one in Paris we were soon in the old quarter of the town in Place Henri IV with the imposing façade of the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre stretching up to the heavens. Close by is one of the oldest buildings in Vannes, La Cohue. Dating back to 13th century, it was first a market hall, then briefly became home to the Breton parliament in exile, before being used as a theatre and now an art museum.
Turning down by the side of the cathedral, Bertrand drew our attention to a bronze motif in the paving stones similar in style to the scallop shells marking the way to Compostela. It is a representation of a stoat (hermine in French) wearing a scarf, which is the Breton emblem symbolising purity and bravery. Legend has it that Anne de Bretagne was out hunting one day when she spotted a stoat with its pristine winter coat refusing to cross a muddy stream. Taking this as a sign of purity and bravery, she adopted the maxim plutôt la mort que la souillure (rather death than defilement) as her personal motto. Brittany’s connection with the animal, however, predates Anne: it appears on chivalric arms as early as the 13th century. Today, l’hermine has pride of place on the black-and-white Breton flag and turns up endlessly in tourist shops.
To whet our taste buds, we stopped outside the indoor market. where Bertrand produced a tub of biscuits time for une petite devinette (guessing game). Most of us correctly guessed blé noir (buckwheat) as the main ingredient, but sesame seeds and seaweed proved more elusive. The result is a crisp, savoury biscuit that works well with cheese and is gluten-free too.
Blé noir or sarrasin is, of course, the main ingredient for making galettes (savoury crêpes) but we learned that in the past it was served as part of the main course, as a filler, often alongside bone marrow and vegetables. Much of Breton cooking has its roots in the simple ingredients that were readily available: dairy, vegetables, fruit and seafood.
OFF TO MARKET
Heading inside the marketplace we were invited to sit down while Breton hot dogs-aka galettes-saucisses, galettes wrapped around a sausage were being prepared, to be washed down with a slug of local cider, bien sûr. Purists don’t add sauces such as ketchup or mustard. Likewise, la complète (a galette with ham, cheese and a fried egg) is the traditional way to eat a savoury crêpe; the addition of smoked salmon, mushrooms and ratatouille, however delicious, are modern inventions. Bernard then surprised us again by singing ‘the sausage song’, an anthem adopted by Rennes football supporters while eating their favourite half-time snack:
Galette-saucisse, je t’aime, j’en mangerai des kilos Et si tu m’abandonnes, Alors je m’empoisonne Avec des tripes de Caen Et des rillettes du Mans.
Next it was time to weave our way through the Saturday shoppers to Véro’s cheese stall. Véronique Cauvin stocks more than 250 types of cheese and dairy products, but we were here to sample the Breton onesa Tome de Rhuys, a chèvre aux algues, a Trappe de Timadeuc and a Pavé Breton. Véro studied at renowned culinary school Ferrandi Paris, and offers her services as a chef for private functions as well as manning the cheese stall. She also has more than 25 cookery books to her name. We were feeling quite replete by this time, but we knew we had several more treats in store. Vannes has a separate indoor market dedicated to fish and seafood and this was our next stop. Here we met Gwenaël Le Labourier, an oyster and mussel farmer, who was busy shucking oysters for his customers. One of our party, impressed by Gwenaël’s biceps, wanted to know how much the racks of oysters weighed (up to 25kg), how long they took to reach maturity (three years) and whether he came from a family of oyster farmers (no). In fact, unusually (as it is often a father-to-son profession) after helping out a neighbour one day, Gwenaël just took to it and has been working in the industry since the age of 15.
Oyster farmer, Gwenael Le Labourier
Questions over, it was time to sample the prepared oysters and mussels, so we took ourselves outside with the tray of goodies, and Bernard produced a bottle of Muscadet-sur-lie, the perfect accompaniment for shellfish. You might be of the opinion of one of the group (“too slippery”, said with a shudder) but if you’ve never tried oysters before, this would be the perfect chance to do so.
The tour was beginning to feel like one of those safari suppers where each course is eaten at a different location. We were now on to desserts and first stop was the tiny shop Les Nuages de Gege, which specialises in cream puffs -choux pastry filled with fresh cream with a variety of savoury and sweet flavours, from smoked salmon to chocolate ganache. Géraldine, the creator of the business, swapped a career in audiovisual in Paris for this delightful little shop tucked down a side street in Vannes. The fresh ingredients of the nuages (clouds) mean they need to be consumed within 24 hours no problem when they are this delicious.
CULTURAL INSIGHTS
For our last ‘course’ we returned to the main square to try a true Breton speciality, kouign-amann (literally butter cake). Again, the ingredients are very simple – a kind of bread dough, butter and sugar, which are layered up to resemble puff pastry. The cake originated in Douarnenez, Finistère, but has been adopted throughout Brittany and has become popular as street food as far afield as Indonesia. François, who learned his trade from his parents, has the ideal premises in the heart of Vannes, where everything is freshly made on-site, and he was doing a roaring trade when we arrived at his eponymous shop. A warm, buttery treat was the perfect way to round off our food tour.
Looking back, it proved an unusually rich way to get under the skin of a place: I came away with a sharper sense of Vannes’ history, a Breton song lodged in my head, and a genuine feel for the region’s culture. One word of advice: if you take the tour, have a very light breakfast!
VANNES ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Brittany Ferries operates overnight sailings from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo, which is about a two-hour drive from Vannes.
www.brittany-ferries.co.uk
WHERETO STAY
Hôtel Le Branhoc – Brit Hotel Auray
A 2-star hotel 20km from Vannes. 5 route du Bono, 56400 Auray
hotel-auray.brithotel.com
FOOD TOUR & PRODUCERS
Breizhtronomie Food Tour
Walking tours are available around Vannes, Auray and Concarneau and take on average three hours. Prices start at €55 per person and include all tastings. Family tours of 1.5 hours are also available. Tours in English on certain dates or by arrangement.
breizhtronomie-food-tour.com/en
La Ferme de Kerroui
A farm producer specialising in poultry. Halles des Lices, 56000 Vannes
lafermedekerroui.com
Véro – Crèmes et Fromages
Halles des Lices, 56000 Vannes
www.facebook.com/VEROcremesetfromages
Gwenaël Le Labourier
Halle aux Poissons de Vannes, 56000 Vannes Site ostréicole, 56000 Le Tour-du-Parc
Les Nuages de Gege
7 rue de la Poissonnerie, 56000 Vannes
www.facebook.com/lesnuagesdegege
François
6 Place des Lices, 56000 Vannes
TOURIST INFORMATION
Golfe du Morbihan/Vannes tourism
6 Quai Eric Tabarly, 56000 Vannes
www.golfedumorbihan.bzh
From France Today Magazine
Lead photo credit : Photo: Shutterstock
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *