Alison Hughes heads to Charente-Maritime to visit the Plus Beaux Villages of Mornac-sur-Seudre and Talmont-sur-Gironde and experience life along the estuary…
Two seagulls flying side-by-side, one blue and one green, make up the logo of Charente-Maritime. Blue is for the sea and green for the land – the two elements that have shaped and formed the lives of its inhabitants for centuries. Although now part of the much larger region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, this department has retained its own unique character, marked by white-washed houses with low terracotta-tiled roofs, vineyards and salt marshes.
I was heading to La presqu’île d’Arvert, in the southwest of Charente-Maritime, a stretch of land sandwiched between two rivers, the mighty Gironde and the smaller Seudre. On the edge of each stands a Plus Beau Village de France – Mornac on the banks of the Seudre and Talmont on the Gironde. Both also have the label of Village de Pierre et d’Eau, highlighting the importance of water, be it sea or river, to daily life. In fact, salt and fresh water mingle in these estuaries and this ebb and flow is essential to one of the main industries of the area oyster farming. The flat floodplains beside the river Seudre were originally salt pans, where salt was harvested for more than a thousand years, first by the Gauls and then by the Romans. This activity continued until well into the 19th century when the farming of oysters in the shallow basins (known as claires) took precedence. Having said that, salt production is now enjoying something of a revival, and the two industries live happily alongside each other.
THROUGH MARSH AND VINEYARD
A great way to see the extent of this marshy landscape is to hop on Le Train des Mouettes, which runs from Saujon to La Tremblade, with stops along the way at Mornac-sur-Seudre and Chaillevette. This renovated steam train, among the oldest in France, chugs along at a leisurely pace following the path of the Seudre, with plenty of time to take in the patchwork of channels and basins and occasional vineyards.
The idea to resurrect the former ‘oyster train’ was born some 40 years ago, and nowadays more than 120 volunteers ensure its smooth running. It has to be said that they looked to be thoroughly enjoying themselves, whether waving a flag for clear passage or tooting the whistle when setting off. Leaving the train at Mornac-sur-Seudre, we were in for a treat: it was the annual marché des potiers, and stalls laden with ceramics of all sorts from cow-shaped bowls to Gallo-Roman-style pots -lined the streets leading down to the port. The village began attracting artists and craftsmen in the 1950s, drawn by its tranquil atmosphere and ever-changing vistas. Shop doors stood open, inviting us in to admire superb craftsmanship. At the entrance to the village was a shop dedicated to macramé, with everything from plant hangers to a deckchair. Nearby was an artist who made things entirely from driftwood found along the shoreline, and a jeweller who made necklaces from sea glass.
SEEKING REFUGE
A circular walk leads from the medieval market hall past the austere façade of the Eglise Saint-Pierre. Its interior is very simple with a nod to ostréiculture in an oyster-shell-shaped receptacle, now used for flowers. One of the many Romanesque churches for which this area is famous, its forbidding exterior reminds us that in times gone by churches also served as refuges from attack. The road leads down to the port, circling back past whitewashed houses with colourful shutters. The narrow alleyways reminded sailors of North African medinas and they dubbed this part of the village le quartier arabe.
market hall and street, Mornac
The following day took us across the presqu’île d’Arvert to the Gironde estuary and another Plus Beau Village, Talmont-sur-Gironde. Like Mornac-sur-Seudre, the village is pedestrianised and has become home to several artisans and artists. But it is Che iconic church which first captures your attention as you approach. Standing on a promontory at the very edge of the cliff, its silhouette is striking.
View of Mornac church from market square
Dedicated to Saint Radegonde, it looks out towards the Gironde and the sea beyond. Above the north door are some Fine examples of Romanesque sculpture, designed as a pictorial guide to salvation. On the left-hand side, the warning is clear: to avoid being devoured by evil, represented by two dragons and a monster, only Christ can save the soul. On the right, penitents who have overcome their passions, symbolised by a tamed lion, are shown on their way to heaven.
On the orders of Edward I of England, who was also the Duke of Aquitaine, the village of Talmont was built as a bastide, with straight intersecting streets making it easier for military manoeuvres. By fortifying the village, Edward could control the entry to the estuary and access to the important port of Bordeaux. Today only the Tour Blanche remains out of the village’s original four towers, as the fortifications were destroyed by the Spanish in 1652.
The sea has dominated the history of Talmont, with both nighs and lows. For centuries, local fishermen caught sturgeon out, so the story goes, it was a chance visit by a Russian princess that taught them that the precious eggs were the source of high-quality caviar – they used to throw the eggs back nto the sea or feed them to the ducks! A Parisian chef, Émile Prunier, heard the story and set up a manufacturing business in the area which was a resounding success. However, the inevitable happened and overfishing resulted in a ban in the 1980s. Other traditional methods of fishing have continued though, such as one-man boats which fish for maigre, detecting shoals by the sound the fish make to attract females.
Anyone who has visited the area will have seen the distinctive fishing huts on stilts which line the coastline of Charente-Maritime. The square nets, known as carrelets, are raised and lowered from the platform above by means of a winch. Although the huts are the property of individuals, the owners have to pay rent for the use of their little patch of sea. These days they are used very much like beach huts in the UK, a place to hang out with family and friends and perhaps catch something for supper. Talmont has a fascinating museum of local history and fishing housed in the old schoolhouse with a traditional flat-bottomed fishing boat, a yole, on display.
VILLAGE LIFE TODAY
Talmont-sur-Gironde’s port area has been the focus of several ambitious schemes: in 1917, after the United States entered the First World War, American forces began preparatory work in the Gironde estuary for a military transhipment base; and in 1972 a major marina was proposed, but neither project was completed, and today the harbour remains a working fishing port.
Christine, rose lady, Talmont
Back in the village itself, I met Christine whose boutique, Le temps des roses, was filled with cards, candles and paintings, painted with her fingertips (no brushes). She told me that she had started painting as a kind of therapy after a serious illness and she had only wanted to paint roses, a symbol of peace and love. She seems to have a found a perfect work/life balance, only opening her little shop a few hours a week, where she indulges her other passion, music, to the delight of customers. A little further along, I was pleased to see a boutique displaying a traditional product – Charentaise slippers. Once only worn by le troisième âge they are now obtainable in bright colours and patterns.
Charentais slippers, Talmont
Before leaving Talmont-sur-Gironde, my guide Caroline pointed out a stone on which was engraved a Latin palindrome. The stone had probably come from the Gallo-Roman town of La Få, the remains of which are just two kilometres away – a link back to a time when, no doubt, its inhabitants were also drawn to this area of green and blue, la terre et la mer.
PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES ESSENTIALS
WHERE TO STAY
Le Port du Paradis, 17600 Nieulle-sur-Seudre
WHERE TO EAT
41 rue du Port, 17113 Mornac-sur-Seudre
HOW TO GET THERE
- Charente-Maritime is 4.5 hours drive from Saint-Malo. Brittany
- Ferries has overnight sailings from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo.
- Le Train des Mouettes: The train runs every day in summer season, reduced timetable in low season. Themed trips are also available.
INFORMATION
For information on the area: royanatlantique.fr
From France Today Magazine
