From a Brittany weekend to choosing train travel this summer – this week’s La Belle Vie newsletter offers an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking, and living like a local.
La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.
Hello readers,
I am currently writing this from my parents’ house in Brittany. The birds are chirping and the sun is shining and even the Breton weather is lovely!
The famous May 1st holiday this year falls on a Friday, which gives French workers an extended weekend, the first of many for this lucky month. It’s an absolute privilege to be able to spend it away from the bustle of Paris. Don’t get me wrong, I love Paris very much, but having the opportunity to visit my parents in such a lovely region is definitely a plus.
What’s open and what’s closed on May 1st in France
Not only are the walks by the beach very relaxing, but the food is always a plus. It’s almost the end of the scallop season, which runs from October to May – so now is the time to indulge as many as possible before the end.
Scallop fishing in the Bay of Saint-Brieuc is one of the most tightly regulated fisheries in France, and the goal is to protect the stock. From mid-May to the end of September, the season is closed. And even during the open season, fishermen can only fish for scallops two days per week, with 45-60 minute windows while exact days and hours are set each week by local authorities.
Towards the end of April each year, a festival is held to celebrate the end of the season – le festival de la coquille Saint-Jacques. Unfortunately, I missed it this year, but in a few weeks a cod party will be held. For three days, the port city of Binic will organise concerts, markets and of course all sorts of cod dishes.
Not to mention the endless galettes and crêpes that I get to enjoy while I’m here – there’s a good reason that Brittany tops the list of regions the French choose for ‘gastronomic’ holidays.
REVEALED: Top French destinations for gastronomic tourism
Another plus – it only takes me around two and a half hours to get directly from Paris’ Gare Montparnasse to the Saint-Brieuc train station.
In general, taking the train is my favourite means of transport. Not only can you travel across France – and Europe – in a more environmentally friendly way, but you also get to skip any sort of airport chaos. It’s practical, quite fast, and so simple.
12 beautiful routes for French train holidays this summer
And with the current geopolitical situation and the price of jet fuel going up, I’ve decided to book my summer holiday in France (like a lot of French people are doing).
I will be taking the night train to the south of France – leaving around 9pm from Paris and arriving around 6am. I’m not expecting to get the best night’s sleep of my life, but the adventure seems definitely worth it.
Europe’s budget airlines first to cut flights as jet fuel prices soar
In early September, I will leave the country to go hiking in Italy. It’s a seven-hour train ride from Paris to Milan – and if you book early enough, you can sometimes get really good deals on first-class tickets, which definitely brings comfort to another level.
I know the train ticket prices are often quite high, but France’s rail service, low-cost train Ouigo, offers different routes for lower prices. These trains may not be the most comfortable, as the goal is to almost double the capacity that TGV InOui trains can carry, but they are quite practical – even for last-minute bookings.
Ouigo: Everything you need to know about France’s low-cost trains
